Swine
A LocalBozo.com Restaurant Review
531 Hudson Street near Charles Street, West Village
212-255-7675
Getting There: 1 to Christopher Street – Sheridan Square
http://www.swinenyc.com

Original Visit: August 2012

What We Said Then: “Picture if your favorite dive bar began serving up some excellent comfort food. Or if your favorite low key restaurant began catering to a lively bar crowd. Swine combines the best of both worlds without compromising anything. And somehow, they manage to pull it off brilliantly.”  

You can read our initial review of Swine at this link- pardon the particularly awful photos.

Then and Now: Three and a half years have passed since we made our first visit to Swine, a comfortable and cozy two-floor space that could double as your friendly neighborhood watering hole. But to have lasting power, a West Village eatery has to have some kind of cache in a neighborhood where flavors of the month come and go as quickly as a big gust of wind from nearby James J. Walker Park. Fortunately while the small but elaborately decorated bar is perpetually buzzing, the restaurant has gone to great lengths to offer up a vast and expansive menu, leaning heavily on newfangled takes on comfort fare. In our first trip to Swine, we marveled at innovations like ‘wines on tap’ and indulged in an array of different cheeses and charcuterie while sitting in the downstairs level- so it’s only fitting that our return trip would allow us primo viewing of the main bar area and the opportunity to more fully enjoy some of the restaurant’s rich fare.

The inviting setting is spruced up by a small outdoor patio space right along Hudson Street where people watching and affordable beers make Happy Hour a must as the sun begins its descent. It’s a bit quiet at the early hour when we arrive allowing us to chat with the friendly bar staff and take in some of Swine’s charming decor. From the checkered wooden floor to the brightly lit communal booth situated on the far side of the bar, the space is infinitely warm because it’s so purposefully low-key- a spot where it’s equally appropriate to slug down a craft cocktail, a frothy microbrew or a quick pour of wine.

Be forewarned, the dishes being served here are mostly heavy so you’ll want to order accordingly.  If you plan on throwing caution to the wind, there’s a lot to like from Swine’s dinner menu. The massive “Roasted Bone Marrow” ($18) legitimately looks like it could have been imported from the town of Bedrock. Decadently rich, two bulbous bones adorned with a garlicky green salsa verde act as makeshift serving dishes from which to scoop the piping hot and smooth marrow, spread thickly on toasted Pullman slices.  Each mouthwateringly greasy piece absolutely oozes with fatty flavors- rivaled perhaps only by the “Bone Marrow & Brisket Burger” ($20), layered with sweet caramelized onions and creamy Tarentaise cheese. The absolutely perfect medium rare temperature yields a warm pink center that is intensely seasoned and brilliantly juicy beneath its soft brioche bun.

For some lighter fare, the “Tuna Tar-Taco” ($14) delivers a nice kick of jalapeño alongside hunks of fresh pink Bluefin tuna within the confines of a gluten-free taco shell. The “All Kale Caesar!” ($14) meanwhile was a perfectly ho-hum salad offering- appropriate given that you’re likely to want to grab your greens wherever you can- prepared in simple fashion with some anchovies, lemon and shaves of Pecorino cheese to balance out the bowl of creamy greens.  If red meat or pork isn’t typically your thing, the crispy skin and tender bone-plucked meat of the “Roasted Organic Free-Range Chicken” ($23) is another suitable alternative, replete with bok choy and sugar snap peas- but candidly, at a place like Swine, you’re best served to taste some of the heavyweights.

What do you get when you mesh macaroni elbows, deep-fried onion rings, cheddar and Parmesan cheeses and pieces of jowl bacon? You get Swine’s signature “The Mac (n’ cheese) Daddy” ($15). Though you may need to schedule a visit with your cardiologist after this one, the combination of flavors and elements here are undeniably savory. The side is a perfect complement to the aforementioned “Brisket Burger,” though it’s best that you share this one with a friend.

The Bottom Line: Perhaps the best part about a dinner experience at Swine is that the restaurant doesn’t price gouge it’s guests- there’s not an item on the menu over $30. The casual setting is a fun play on a neighborhood bar that serves complex American-style fare that’s suitable for a drinking crowd. Whether you drop in on an early evening hour, for some late night comfort eats or for the place’s delicious brunch menu, know that a visit to Swine is ideal for a New Yorker that doesn’t take oneself too seriously- and it’s nice to see that in that light, not much seems to have changed since our very first visit.

Rundown of the Meal

Starters
Tuna Tar-Taco (Tartare in a Taco – $14)*
The Mac (‘n cheese) Daddy ($15)*
All Kale Caesar! ($14)
Roasted Bone Marrow ($18)*

Mains
Bone Marrow & Brisket Burger ($20)*
Roasted Organic Free Range Chicken ($23)

Sides
Truffle Cauliflower Grits ($10)*

*Meal Highlight

Nestled as a remote spot on a relatively remote street in the heart of the West Village, the restaurant formerly known as Wong made a transformation to perhaps a more appropriately titled Chomp Chomp back in the spring.  Conceptually, the transition would usher in a new wave of casual Singapore-inspired street fare, some that you might find when walking through the country’s iconic hawker stands, grabbing some spicy and inventive dishes as you go.  Here, the seating and layout is a bit more traditional despite a menu rich with complexities.

With some cultural music piped in overhead, it’s difficult not to be immediately pleased by Chomp Chomp’s unmistakable charm.  The small but home-style place is laid out with wooden classroom stools lining both the small bar area and much of the restaurant, where the worn wooden floor and white brick walls both lend themselves to a clean-looking setting in the dining area, enhanced further by the natural light peering in during our early weeknight visit.  Though it’s relatively quiet now, the seats are almost entirely filled by the time our check is paid- a testament to the fact that while the restaurant is sufficiently hidden by Cornelia Street’s quietude, it’s hardly a secret to the neighborhood locals.

The menu here leans on a variety of culinary styles- namely Indian, Thai and Chinese- but is decidedly Singaporean given Chomp Chomp’s penchant for delivering approachable and affordable spice-fueled fare.  Meant to be shared family-style, there’s nothing offered at the restaurant that exceeds $17, giving guests the opportunity to sample at will without worrying about being burned by a costly evening out.  Not at Chomp Chomp though where it seems that special attention is paid to the fresh and authentic ingredients being used to recreate the true ‘hawker’ experience.  The country’s traditional summer rolls for instance- or “Popiah” ($8.5)- tightly wrapped fresh hunks of tender shrimp, jicama slaw and snow peas in a floury crepe, doused with a drizzle of sweet and sticky sauce dollops.  The “Hah Zheung Gai” ($10.5) or ‘chicken wings’ are also meant to be quickly grabbed by hand and devoured.  Bulbous and meaty, the chicken is deep fried and sauced with shrimp paste, garlic and fiery chilis yielding a crunchy textural component that is quickly overshadowed by a wave of heat and spice.

The most complete dish on the Chomp Chomp menu though was the super delicious “Prawn Mee” ($13), a generous portion of some of the tastiest warm broth drowning meaty shrimp, savory spare ribs and a handful of tangled noodles.  The piping hot brown shrimp broth was savory enough to be slurped up on it’s own, but also added immense flavor to the bowl of accompanying thin and thick noodles.  We were admittedly a bit less impressed by the likes of the “Soy Duck” ($16) and the roasted “Hainanese Chicken Rice” ($14), but only because their predecessors were so superior.  The poultry dishes were nicely cooked with their skin nicely coated in a subtle but flavorful soy sauce.  Each was remarkably juicy and tender but given the remainder of the menu, dishes utilizing more intense flavors like coconut sauce, curry and anchovies would have probably catered to a more well-rounded meal given our table’s palates.  But on protein alone, the dishes worked out just fine.

Chomp Chomp was buzzing with guests by the time our final serving of “Goreng Pisang” ($7) reached our table.  The crispy deep-fried banana fritters were sprinkled in chili flakes and sea salt and served with a heaping scoop of vanilla ice cream, effectively marrying the contrast of warm and ice cold, sweet and savory- a consistent theme throughout many of the courses that we would sample.  The music continues to pump its way through the restaurant’s speakers as our meal concludes making it a bit more difficult to converse inside of the now populated restaurant.  But given the quaint West Village block, the festive atmosphere inside is exactly what you’d hope to find at a place that exudes such authenticity.  Managing to maintain affordable prices amid a menu of approachable fare seems paramount to the identity of Singapore food and it’s one that Chomp Chomp certainly celebrates in most satisfying fashion.

Rundown of the Meal

Snacks
Popiah ($8.5)*
Hah Zheung Gai ($10.5)

Rice and Noodles
Prawn Mee ($13)*
Hainanese Chicken Rice ($14)

Mains
Soy Duck ($16)

Desserts
Goreng Pisang ($7)*

*Meal Highlight

(Primo 135 will be cooking at LocalBozo.com’s BrunchBash on Saturday, May 9th)

The daytime atmosphere at West Village Venetian-style restaurant Primo 135 is vastly different to the intimate and dimly lit setting around dinnertime. Daylight shines through the restaurant’s open curtains, peering in upon a charming little brasserie, eerily reminiscent of a Parisian bistro with its clean white interior, windowside banquettes and eye catching chandeliers that hang overhead, just intricately enough that you are sure to notice them. Though the restaurant is open all week for dinner service, their recently launched 135 Weekend Champagne Brunch has us drawn to the neighborhood- and with good reason. Priced at just $25, the experience is a step up from the boozy brunch party-style atmosphere that has given the entire genre a bad name in recent years. And after a long weekend night on the town, sometimes that’s exactly what you need the following afternoon.

Primo 135 boasts an open air patio located right on Seventh Avenue and though the eight tables are setup for service, the cold temperatures dictate that they’ll need to remain empty at least for a few more weeks. But a step inside to the quaint and approachable space is warm and inviting, adorned with black and white decor around the exposed brick walls that surround the room. A diminutive L-shaped marble bar is available for more casual dining- or to kick back a few drinks- but to enjoy the restaurant’s full experience, you’ll want to wait for one of the available tables.

The dinner menu here is definitively Venetian, but for brunch the offerings are mostly more traditional. Dishes like “Eggs Benedict” and an array of “Frittatas” pace much of the menu, though there are options like “Penne Alla Vodka” and “Mozarella Di Buffalo” that certainly give a nod to the place’s Italian leanings. Pleasantly, each brunch service starts with a complementary bowl of yogurt, topped decadently with fresh berries, granola and a drizzle of sticky and delicious honey. Paired with a variety of brunch cocktails like mimosas, sangria and different flavors of Bellinis, it’s these little distinctions that help the restaurant stand out from so many places that serve up the ‘same-old’ formula for brunch service.

With “Pear Bellinis” in hand, we dig in first to a delectable “Salmon Benedict,” deliciously smoked and served atop a slightly toasted English muffin. A touch of the fork caused the delicately poached eggs to bleed all over the thin slices of Canadian salmon with yellow yolk now covering both the muffin itself and the dual sides of greens and hearty roasted potatoes standing by in accompaniment.   In similar fashion, the “Maple Bacon Cheeseburger” was also decorated with an egg, served sunny side up allowing the yolk to richly lacquer much of the meaty sandwich that lay in front of us. Two sweet house-cured bacon strips proved to be a perfect complement to the melted gooey pepper-jack cheese that covered the thick patty of piping hot seasoned beef between halves of a fluffy egg brioche loaf. Though the bun was a bit oversized, the burger itself unleashed a confluence of mouthwatering flavors and textures with each savory bite from the crispy cuts of lettuce and tomato to the runny egg, salty bacon, oozing cheese and warm patty of beef.

As one of New York City’s most unheralded brunches, Primo 135 serves up tasty fare considered ‘traditional with a twist’ amid a relaxed and likable setting. Once fully operational as temperatures improve, their outdoor patio will make for one of Manhattan’s most sought after spots given the restaurant’s desirable location. And at just $25, the place provides a virtually unbeatable brunch value considering the quality of the cuisine being served, the level of friendly service and the pleasurable experience derived from a routine ninety minute visit to this old-world West Village eatery.

Rundown of the Meal

Brunch Menu
$25, includes yogurt, brunch cocktails, coffee, tea or soft drink

Salmon Benedict
Maple Bacon Cheeseburger*

* Meal Highlight

The farm-to-table movement has been in full-effect in New York City for a number of years now. So many in fact that the concept is often regarded as ho-hum. But before you continue that sarcastic roll of the eyes, consider sitting down at one of the tables inside Rosemary’s, a lively West Village restaurant that sits on a scenic corner and proves an unparalleled ability to execute an inventive idea.

We’ll pretend for a moment that you aren’t in the know- that news of the fresh produce being cultivated on a small farm on the restaurant’s roof has somehow passed you by and that these locally produced ingredients are quite literally delivered from farm to table. The trattoria-like setting meanwhile paints a similarly consistent setting with strands of light bulbs strewn across the ceilings overhead and casual rustic feeling wooden tables situated in the main dining room. The addition of exposed brick walls and ample plant life on display enhances the place’s approachability, though their penchant for reservation-free dining supresses that some. The bar area is fittingly designed with intermingled wooden panels, woven together like a picnic basket beneath its granite countertop where the restaurant’s run of $40 bottles of Italian wine are whisked out to the thirsty dinner crowd.

Interestingly, Rosemary’s lacks a true liquor license- but their handful of beer and wine infused cocktails offer one of the tamest (and finest) takes on the “Michelada” ($10) that we can recall. The menu meanwhile is decorated in rustic Italian fashion- one page long, a dazzling array of basic meats, cheeses and focaccias, and less than a dozen of their house made pastas and entrees which allows you to focus rather than be overwhelmed by a multitude of options.

  

Eschewing the $6 helpings from the ‘Verdure’ section, featuring the likes of “Warm Olives” and “Eggplant Caponata,” we dig into a diminutively sized selection of ‘Formaggi’ ($5 each). Our disappointment over the portion size aside, the silky “Ricotta Fresca” and stronger “Pecorino Toscano” were fine compliments to the salty slices of “Soppressata” ($9). But nearly everything was enhanced by the small side of sticky honey and fragrant rosemary plated beneath a basket of fresh bread, subtly dropped at our table- even the sweet-meets-savory “Fig and Proscuitto” Focacce ($11), a thick fluffy serving topped with arugula, balsamic and shreds of salty meat.

  

Considering the recent drop in temperature, the homemade “Cavatelli” ($14) was a no-brainer, adorned with walnuts, deliciously seasonal butternut squash and immersed in sage brown butter. The combination of perfectly prepared pasta bites amid a rich and flavorful broth-like sauce paired together admirably. Similarly savory, the “Pappardelle” ($18) house special was a more traditional Italian dish. The long flat strands of fresh al dente ribbons were lacquered with a ripe red tomato sauce with a chunky ragu and garnished with flakes of Parmigiano Reggiano for flavor contrast.

  

Starch-loading made way for a generous portion of “Smoked Lamb” ($24) deliciously braised atop a bed of creamy ricotta and brown butter. The hunks of tender meat paired with the bitterness of grilled red radicchio, smoked onions and a sweet side of roasted fruit. The dish, appropriately sized for sharing technically seemed more short rib than lamb, but the flavors were particularly tasty nonetheless. Surprisingly, the evening’s can’t miss dish came by way of dessert, where Rosemary’s’ “Bombolini” ($9) was absolutely sensational. The basket of lemon ricotta donut holes was doused with white sugar, served warm and served beside a small dish of chilled Nutella cream- a lip-smackingly sweet and decadently capper to a hearty Italian meal.

Even if you don’t have the opportunity to check out the rooftop farm at Rosemary’s, you could do a lot worse than reveling in the restaurance vibrant atmosphere downstairs. Though you certainly take a bit of a risk by dropping into a restaurant for dinner as a required walk-in, there is no shortage of noteworthy bars within two minutes of walking distance should the wait be overly excessive. Like most things worth waiting for, Rosemary’s is most definitely worth it.

Rundown of the Meal

Cocktails
Michelada ($10)*
Gift of Magi ($12)

Focacce
Fig and Proscuitto ($11)*

Salumi
Soppressata ($9)

Formaggi
Ricotta ($5)
Pecorino Toscana ($5)

Primi
Cavatelli ($14)*
Pappardelle ($18) – ‘Special’

Secondi
Smoked Lamb ($24)*

Dessert
Bombolini ($9)*

*Meal Highlight

Summer’s steamiest evening was not the ideal time to grab a reservation at a place without a working air conditioner. And yet, that’s where we found ourselves unbenownst to us prior- wiping sweat from our brows and cheeks as we scarfed down some comfort food at Chef Marc Murphy’s West Village outpost of Ditch Plains. The AC was slated to be fixed just days after our arrival, a comforting sentiment in an otherwise uncomfortable setting, appeased only by repeat pours of Brooklyn Brewery “Summer Ale” at $8 a clip. But the atmosphere at a restaurant only goes as far as the food being served and in a City where folks are perfectly content to wait two full hours to sit in a cramped table when the fare is worthy, making sacrifices is often a part of dining out and with that in mind, we were willing to give Chef Murphy the benefit of the doubt.

Ditch Plains is neither a new restaurant or is it conceptually novel with its array of deep fried fare and a menu that heavily relies on burgers and dogs as its house staples. Comparatively, it is far more approachable and relaxed than the other restaurants under Murphy’s umbrella- namely the dual locations of Landmarc and the newer Kingside which is housed in the Viceroy Hotel.  The small eatery is earmarked by a casual dozen seat bar, backed by three rows of wine bottles surrounding two sufficiently sized TVs to satisfy those with even a passing interest in sporting events. Rustic wooden booths line the interior of the sparsely decorated, dimly lit corner restaurant space which brings in some nice natural light through it’s modernized glass laden exterior in daytime hours.

With the temperature inside a constant shadow over our party all evening, sipping on a “Spicy Corona” ($10) may have been a poor choice. The blend of beer, tequila, Tabasco and salt, while flavorful, was a fiery mix and only added to the previously existing napkin-to-forehead dabbing at our table. Aside from nibbling on some salads, health conscious eaters might find the Ditch Plains menu to be a bit of a challenge evidenced by a selection of starter options which included the likes of some seasoned deep fried “Jalapeno + Cheddar Tater Tots” ($11) and an order of serviceable “Fried Calamari” ($12). The tots were soft and bulbous with a crisp exterior akin to a zeppole, yet filled with a green pepper that wasn’t overly spicy. The tender “Chicken Meatballs” ($13) were far superior though, doused in a fresh orange colored tomato sauce and topped with shaves of pecorino and sage. The capers here were a nice touch, adding another facet of salty seasoning to the otherwise flavorful spheres.

Eventgoers will surely recognize the restaurant’s trademark “Ditch Dog” ($16), a thick juicy hot dog topped with gooey macaroni and cheese, often doled out at food tastings all over town. Served over a generous portion of better than expected French fries, the Ditch and the “Sloppy Dog” ($16)- as you’d imagine, it’s a bed of beef smothering the bun- were expectedly rich, with the variety of textures and flavors working well together. Chef Murphy’s burgers though were somewhat less impressive. Priced between $16-$20, we anticipated a more sizable serving from the four choice selection and perhaps worse, they were each served overcooked. Nevertheless, the accoutrement on each burger deflected some of the attention away from the medium well patty. Though the smoked slaw and aioli topped “Smokin’ Good Burger” ($18) was tasty in its own right, we preferred “The Big Marc” ($18), topped with an aioli-meets-ketchup-meets vodka (‘spiked ketchup’) spread. The “Sesame Crusted Tuna Burger,” absolutely lacquered in a creamy avocado and jalapeno aioli may have been the signature dish here, but at its diminutive size and bloated price ($20), we found ourselves gobbling up any remaining fries at the table to ensure that we’d leave satiated.

The staff, equally as glistening as our party, did their best to accommodate us in spite of the circumstances- but with the heat continuing to rise during the course of our meal, remaining in positive spirits proved demanding. In light of our situation, it would have taken a perfect performance from Ditch Plains to have been given a pass during our visit, but fundamental errors like the overcooked temperature of our burgers and their inability to serve us our cold bottled beer of choice because a new case had just been opened, continued to mar an evening that was seemingly hexed from the get go. Some sacrifices you are often willing to stomach, but others you simply can’t excuse.

Rundown of the Meal

To Start
Jalapeno & Cheddar Tater Tots ($11)
Fried Calamari ($12)
Chicken Meatballs ($13)*

Burgers
The Big Marc ($18)*
Smokin’ Good Burger ($18)
Sesame Crusted Tuna Burger ($20)*

Dogs
The Ditch Dog ($16)*
The Sloppy Dog ($16)

Mains
Macaroni + Cheese ($14)

*Meal Highlight

They’ve managed to master the likes of seafood at Lure Fishbar and tackled the ultimate hamburger at winepub Burger & Barrel and more than a year ago, opened their very first homage to the taco with West Village haunt El Toro Blanco, the third and most recent restaurant opened under the joint umbrella of owner John McDonald and owner/Chef Josh Capon. With such a diverse portfolio of restaurants, one might anticipate some less-than-stellar fare at any of the three spaces, but with our initial stop at the sleek Mexican inspired tequila lounge, it’s evident that the pair isn’t just resting on the laurels of their previous successes.

You’d be hard pressed to find a more driven New York City chef than Josh Capon, who alternates between stops in each of his restaurant’s kitchens, making appearances at food events and also spending time on your television sets- word has it that Spike TV has already greenlit a new upcoming pilot featuring the charismatic chef entitled ‘Frankenfood,’ the latest in competitive cooking shows. Fortunately though as we stop into El Toro Blanco, Capon is front and center draped in his customary white cooking apron and as always, hob-nobbing with a room filled with guests inside of his swank eatery.

Similar to its sister restaurants, El Toro Blanco is dimly lit and stylish outfitted with a modernized take on a largely old fashioned style setup. Burnt orange chairs and booths surround the slim wooden tables as overhead lights strewn about the dining room illuminate the space ever so subtly to create a quietly cool atmosphere. The noise inside the room meanwhile is festive and energy-filled, just as you’d anticipate when dining out Mexican-style. But this is hardly just passable Mexican fare here as we learned by Capon’s touch, even the traditional gets classed up just a bit.

 

El Toro Blanco fancies itself as a tequila bar and with more than 100 different styles, who are we to argue. Conceptually the restaurant is designed to introduce diners to some upscale Mexican cuisine coupled with an unparalleled selection of tequilas ranging from the commonplace to the ultra-rare. Instead we stick with the tasty tomato juice infused “Michelada Oaxaca” ($14) and the place’s signature “El Toro” ($12) margarita- the more experimental drinker opts for the “Chile Rubbed Mango” ($14) variety which boasts the heat of habanero in the drink itself. Too hot for our blood, considering the three salsas that accompanied the freshly prepared “Guacamole” ($24, Large) had us alternating between gulps of agua and dabbing our foreheads with a napkin to prevent further spice sweats. The “Green Chile Queso Fundido” ($12) though was deliciously gooey, served as an oozy cheese fondue with some chiles and flour tortillas to capture everything served inside the piping hot pan.

 

El Toro Blanco has a variety of meat and fish options that range from enchiladas and mole style preparation to their “Langosta Puerto Nuevo” ($38), a succulent lobster served with potatoes, Mexican street corn and a basket of warm tortillas. But on this night, it was all about the tacos for us, a pleasantly affordable selection of ten different varieties served two per order. From their “Cabrito” ($12) or slow-roasted goat to their “Grilled Swordfish” ($12) narrowing down to just one proved particularly taxing as our friendly waiter returned to our table. And although we questioned ourselves come decision time, the tray of tacos that was delivered to our table reinforced that our initial instincts were on point. The “Grilled Octopus” ($12) was outstanding, with each charred hunk of white flesh surrounded by freshly sliced avocado, a jalapeno aioli, cilantro and a chilled radish slaw. Equally as mouthwatering, the spit roasted berkshire pork filled “Al Pastor” ($10) coupled the sweetness of roasted pineapple with the hearty seasoned swine and topped with nuggets of white creamy queso cotija for an unparalleled combination of flavors. Even the traditional chicken taco or “Tinga de Pollo” ($10) was uniquely prepared with the pulled strands of chicken adorned with a chipotle infused queso and diced tomatoes that were both sweet and spicy.

 

Though El Toro Blanco is hardly reinventing the wheel when it comes to Mexican fare, their formula for creating a similar restaurant vibe around three different styles of cuisine is commendable and their track record of successful openings and their subsequent sustainability has elevated the team of Capon and McDonald onto the short list of Manhattan’s elite restaurateurs. And if three prodigious restaurants in our City isn’t enough, Lure’s recent expansion into Miami’s posh South Beach area may be the first of the group’s efforts toward United States expansion. We can only hope however that the team’s heart remains in their home where with El Toro Blanco they’ve once again proven that there’s always room for a new take on traditional fare, as long as it’s done the right way courtesy of the right culinary hand.

Rundown of the Meal

Appetizers

Guacamole ($24, Large)*

Green Chile Queso Fundido ($12)

Tacos De La Casa

Tinga de Pollo ($10)*

Grilled Octopus ($12)*

Al Pastor ($10)

*Meal Highlight

Down the Hatch
179 West 4th Street near Jones Street, West Village
212-627-9747
Getting There: A,B,C,D,E,F,M to W. 4th St – Washington Sq.; 1 to Christopher St.-Sheridan Sq.
http://www.nycbestbar.com/downthehatch/

Ah New York City. There are new bars and there are old staples. I’ve been visiting West Village bar Down the Hatch for the better part of the last decade- as far back as I can remember having been able to get into bars. Its underground location is an ideal respite from the typically chilly winter nights and the scorching summer afternoons. Although it caters to a younger, frattier audience, there are also guys like me who have grown up with the place and continually head back for a visit every now and again- though candidly, it’s never as frequently as I’d have liked- so you find a decent mix of after work grown-ups and after class college students co-inhabiting the dimly lit space.

The name Down the Hatch always seems to resonate with people conversationally, jogging their memory of a hookup gone wrong, a drunken afternoon, or an emergency trip into one of their tightly spaced rest rooms. And that said, the place does always seem to evoke fond memories of a true West Village institution on a street laced with sex shops, small restaurants, and some less exciting bars. Inside the space is decorated like any run of the mill kitchy bar. But part of the NYC Best Bars family, which includes The Stumble Inn, The Gin Mill, Hair of the Dog, The 13th Step, and Off the Wagon, the staff knows a thing or two about running a successful bar and whether your visit is a rehashing of some old memories here or whether its your very first visit, Down the Hatch is quite a unique haunt.

After being given a thorough once over by the always friendly (at least, at the beginning of the day) bouncers, there’s ample seating for parties on both sides of the bar. Ultimately, you’ll find yourself sitting on the communal swing which hangs in front of the DJ booth or toward the back of the adjacent room either playing a drinking game at the large table or working on a game of beer pong, which will almost certainly end in a fight based on competing rules and tossing etiquette amongst two competitive strangers. Down the Hatch has carved a name for itself over the years because of its unbeatable daytime drink specials on weekends, where from 1pm to 6pm all you can eat wings and beers will run you just $23. Although it’s limited to just three pitchers, bringing enough singles and saw bucks to tip out the friendly bar staff will make their count easy to overlook. The Atomic Wings being brought out from the kitchen also don’t hurt as they are some of the tastiest in town. So while you might not order an Old Fashioned or a Martini at this bar, grab a cheap pint of light beer and a basket of wings and relive some of the good old days at a bar that’s remained its same superior self for so many years.

The Rundown

Bar Type - An NYU area bar that caters to collegiate youths, married old men, and seemingly anyone in between looking for an unpretentious night to kick back

When to Visit – You need to visit on Saturday at 1pm. Period. $23 for unlimited wings, fries, onion rings and beer. For 5 hours.

Value - The owners ensure value at all of their bars and Down the Hatch is no different, every day of the week. After work, sit down for $2 cans, $8 pitchers, $3 bottles- it varies all week long based on day of the week but the bar is half price until 8pm Monday through Friday.

The Lowdown – Down the Hatch is one of New York City’s best drinking establishments, evidenced by its reputation and its penchant for perpetual good times. Those who scoff at drinking light beer in a basement bar would be best suited elsewhere, but for those of us looking to enjoy a taste of our City in a space that’s indicative of the fun neighborhood that surrounds it, we look no further than DTH. And although as I’ve gotten older my visits have become more sparse, each time I drop in I feel like I haven’t grown up at all.

The Brooklyneer
220 West Houston Street near Varick Street, West Village, Manhattan
646-692-4911
Getting There: 1 to Houston Street

The “Drink Here Now” crew was on a bit of a bar crawl on a recent Saturday. Therefore this week’s entry into my critiqued tour of NYC’s best watering holes places us directly next to Houston Hall from last week’s edition. It’s rare that a Manhattan bar would ever choose to import the culture outside of its own borough and create a bar out of it. But with The Brooklyneer, it seems New York City is now breaking out of this mold. With parkas fully zipped we headed a mere ten feet down the road and headed inside one of the hippest bars this side of Houston Street.

At the time of our visit it was mid-afternoon and the dimly lit bar was nearly packed with those enjoying a late brunch or gathered with groups of friends for some weekend reveling. A few families and twenty-somethings filled the tables which line the space’s perimeter. Having eaten earlier, we opted to sit at the bar and order a few specialty drinks. The bar space had a very rustic feel to it, and is much longer than the space would indicate, running almost the entire length of the walkway immediately upon enterting. We opted to sit on the service side of the bar to get a full feel of the space. Ornate wallpaper and art fills the extremely warm place, thus making it a perfect winter respite or cool summer shady getaway. After taking in the surroundings we motioned to the bartender who appeared to have been plucked directly from Williamsburg’s best pubs and dropped in the middle of the West Village.

Since we weren’t in any hurry, we took our time to get settled in and enjoy the cozy surroundings as we went over the menu. And because of The Brooklyneer’s generally laid back vibe, I went for a classic Manhattan made with a bourbon chosen at the bartenders discretion. It was both quite boozy and sweet, a perfect match if I do say so myself. Instead of a typical stirrer stick, a paper straw was added for mixing giving the drink a truly classic feel. As a group we indulged in our new favorite drink- “Pickle Back Shot.” To those of you not in the know, a pickle back involves taking a shot of house whiskey or Jameson followed by a shot of pickle juice. It may sound gross to some, but the sourness of any pickle juice will make any brown liquor shot go down with ease. Since The Brooklyneer is one to not cut corners, their pickle juice appears to come from a local artisan variety. Even though we barely scratched the surface on their vast drink menu, and didn’t even try a bite of the food we know that our imbibing crew will be making another visit to Manhattan’s take on NYC’s most popular borough.

Bar Type – Laid back mixology based cocktail and craft beer bar touting itself as a Brooklyn import to Manhattan.

When to Visit – Saturday in the afternoon they are smack in the middle of their brunch rush and the place is nicely busy. The bartenders are less busy at this time and more apt to spend time with your group to go over the menu. But we’ve also been there on a weekend night, and it’s equally as energetic.

Value – You won’t find cheap brews or well drinks here, especially during our visit. When you visit The Brooklyneer you are paying for the scene and that is fine by us when we are in the mood. 

The Lowdown – Sure, you’re not really in a Brooklyn bar but this newcomer to the local cattle call of bars is giving other mixology based, craft beer-centric establishments a run for their  money with an outstanding selection of cocktails. 

- Alex Corrine

With a name like The Marrow, it’s not unreasonable to expect to enter a restaurant of grand extravagance, one that acts as a massive shrine to all things meat. Instead, the newly opened relatively concealed West Village bistro is a sleek, almost loungy restaurant that eclectically meshes equal parts Italian and German inspired styles uniquely. Creatively spawned from former Top Chef contestant Harold Dieterle (Kin Shop, Perilla) and partner Alicia Nosenzo, the amalgam of distinguished styles somehow comes together cohesively inside of the comfortable if not diminutive space. And just like it’s name suggests, you really won’t know how delicious something truly is until you get inside and taste it for yourself.

The layout of The Marrow is almost as eye catching as its bevy of distinctive menu items. Three bright red half-circled booths sit back to back behind the host stand at the restaurant’s entrance, shadowing the vibrant bar area, where inventive cocktails like “The Marrow 75” ($12) and the delicious “Bank Robber” ($12) are effortlessly mixed and poured. From the bar, the walls are lined with some loud wallpaper and shelved knick-knacks, adding bits of conversation starters to the short wait time to be seated. The main dining area features alternating views of the quiet streetside and a small rectangular glimpse into the not-entirely-open kitchen, but really, most of the meal is spent watching what other diners around you are eating.

Although the entire menu is a singular page, there’s actually a great deal of decision making to be made which all depends on your level of dining experimentation. From “Foie Gras Mousse” ($8) and “Braised Rabbit Leg” ($15) to the “Sauteed Stone Bass ‘Vitello Tonato’” ($30) topped with sweetbreads and of course, “The Bone Marrow” ($16), The Marrow certainly offers up the opportunity to taste something different. The “Prosciutto Wrapped Dates” ($7) were an especially collaborative dish, enveloping the sweet oval fruit with rich, creamy gorgonzola cheese chunks, and when wrapped by the salty cured meat into large bites, became perhaps our favorite sampling of our meal. Less than stellar however was shaped selections of “Baccala Gnudi” ($14), which despite the subtle addition of rosemary and pine nuts, had the slimy consistency of gefilte fish, which not even the surrounding broth could salvage.

Unfortunately, the blandness continued to the main courses as the “Juniper-Braised Lamb Neck ($23), while nostalgic for its ‘home-cooked’ flavor, resembled more a pot roast than a classic chef prepared entree. The pungent red sauerkraut and whole roasted carrots and the bed of rutabaga puree made for delectable accoutrements, but the entirety of the dish seemed to miss its mark overall. Pleasantly however, the “Pan-Fried Duck Schnitzel” ($28) more than made up for the dinner’s previous shortcomings. The generous crispy cutlet was downright excellent, perfectly prepared with fresh breadcrumbs and over modest helpings of dry spaetzele, hazelnuts, and a chilled cucumber-potato salad. The warm, salty texture of each bite exploded with flavor; the first time that we can ever recall enjoying duck prepared this way.

Although The Marrow opened toward the very end of 2012, the buzz is already citywide. The fare is innovative and in some cases, downright outstanding. While the newly opened space certainly needs to work through some of the kinks in their menu, it’s infinitely clear that ownership knows how to build toward an opening and subsequently build a following. But to keep up with the rapidly changing tastes of a city that is perpetually fickle The Marrow needs to work on its consistency across the board before we return for a follow up visit- even if the “Dates” were really, really exceptional.

Rundown of the Meal

Meat Plates

Prosciutto Wrapped Dates ($7)*

Starters

Baccala Gnudi ($14)

Mains

Pan-Fried Duck Schnitzel ($28)*

Juniper-Braised Lamb Neck ($23)

*Meal Highlight

Houston Hall
222 West Houston Street near Varick Street, West Village, Manhattan 
212-675-9323
Getting There: 1 to Houston Street

 

On the final weekend of a huge Northeastern cold snap the “Drink Here Now” crew was down in the West Village to drink in the day in only the way we know how. This imbibing trip would take us inside one of the city’s newest and most exciting bier gardens. It is true that during the winter months drinking outside is pretty much nonexistent. But one gigantic, brilliantly designed space in the Village is taking the party inside to give us jaded city folks something to be excited about. Enter “Houston Hall” a bier garden located in the former space once used to house illegal immigrants. But on this Saturday it was the ultimate melting pot of cultures, personalities and brews!

As you approach Houston Hall, its exterior signage and door will tantalize you before you even walk inside. The huge sign and pillars are only the first example of the meticulous architecture that went into re-designing this space. A huge red barn like door welcomes guests with it’s mysteriously oversized appeal. Once inside, we traveled down a small hallway which leads into what we would call one of the most insanely cool spaces in town. It was early in the afternoon and as such, plenty of seating was available at the first come, first served tables, which wouldn’t last for long. We quickly grabbed up seats and began to drink in the place even before the first beer was ordered. The mostly wooden and tiled space appears to retain much of it’s former residence’s charm- a naturally lit, industrial type feel.  One can easily tell that they added a huge layer of faux-historic pictures, knick knacks and paintings to really make you feel like you’re drinking in a world frozen by time.

But before we could get too deep into treating this place like a museum, our waitress came by to take our order. And even though the hall was starting to fill up, she took the time to go through the rather large menu with us. For beers we opted for the tasty “Patrick’s Belgian Blonde” and “Peter’s Pils” varieties in medium sizes running us both 8 dollars. The beers arrived quickly in classic German stein glasses. With lunch time approaching, we decided to order some hearty snacks off their highly eclectic menu. We went for the “Hurricane Wings” ($9.50), “Meat Board” ($17.50) and “Beef, Kimchi, and Smoked Bacon Potstickers” ($8). The menu is far more expansive than a traditional beer hall might suggest, and each of these options certainly hit the spot for us. Houston Hall appears to have a real love for food truck inspired food, making it a true friend to the current New York City eat-on-the-go scene. 

As the day worse on, the hall got more packed changing the vibe from relaxed to more of a party, which we were clearly all for. But during this time some chaos did occur. As we were getting into our third beer each the computer system went down which led to a bit of confusion and disconnect between the wait staff and the bar. But after a short while the internet returned and all was well. Trust us brew fans, this is a place you want to hit often and early in the day. Grab your marathon drinking buddies and mark your territory at one of their huge tables for a saucy afternoon you won’t soon forget. 

Bar Type – Gigantic German style bier garden taking up new residence in the form space used to detain illegal immigrants.

When to Visit – Saturday in the afternoon is hands down the time you need to be at Houston Hall. Arrive with a gang of friends and take over one of their huge wooden tables and spend hours drinking the day away.

Value – Each medium sized beer will run you roughly 8 bucks and the food prices are on par with the rest of the neighborhood. You won’t find cheap brews like PBR or one dollar hot dogs here, but it is the overall vibe of this indoor bier garden that you will truly value. 

The Lowdown – Even through the computers went down on our first visit causing some chaos, Houston Hall is one of the finest new bier gardens to come along in quite some time. The place is huge enough for you to spread out and enjoy beers and grub with your friends with also enough shared space for you to meet some strangers and make some new ones.

- Alex Corrine