Multiple pillars stand perched outside of the Murray Street location of Benares Indian Restaurant, which when unobstructed by typically camouflaging New York City scaffolding, reveals a particularly sleek and modern ambiance just within the building’s dual doors. Outfitted with shiny brown floorboards and yellow banquettes, Benares is an inviting atmosphere that feels like a distinctive downtown haunt to dig into some savory Indian-inspired fare. With its unique interior layout and inventive contemporary menu, fans of this style of cuisine would be hard pressed to find a dining experience that delivers this much overall value – in a Tribeca neighborhood that is normally bereft of such a concept.

It is an early weeknight evening when we arrive at Benares. The small bar area is already buzzing as a ‘change of pace’ to the atypical area Happy Hours. Many of the tables are already filled, even at an early hour, filling us with anticipation as we situate ourselves to experience each course. Despite being utterly reasonable- there isn’t a dish that exceeds $26- the menu leans on the cuisine of Utter Pradesh, the Western state where the city of Benares is located. What that means for the New Yorker is a smattering of fresh seafood, meats and vegetables doused in delicious tomato sauce, using ginger, cumin and garlic among other spices to really showcase the authenticity of the region.

If the fiery “Khasta Gobhi” ($8) wasn’t the most tasty cauliflower we’ve ever tasted, it’s difficult to recall a finer version. Battered to a crisp with garlic and some peppers and served in a spicy red sauce, the dish resembled a similar mouthwatering stickiness of a great General Tso’s dish- but the all veggie version was definitely noteworthy. We grabbed slices of warm “Garlic Naan” ($4) and lathered each doughy morsel with the sauces from the cooked cottage cheese “Paneer Makhani” ($15) and the cinnamon and black pepper doused “Konkani Shrimp” ($14), bulbous prawns that were both tender and juicy.

While Benares certainly serves up their share of Indian staples – your “Chicken Tikka,” ($13) savory and piping hot “Adraki Samosas” ($8) and a zesty “Chicken Vindaloo” ($17), each seems like they are crafted meticulously. The carefully prepared and fresh fare allowed each dish to seemingly be tastier than its predecessor. Even the simply prepared “Lamb Chops” ($25) were perfectly slow cooked in a clay oven, deliciously seasoned with each juicy bite pulling seamlessly from the warm foil covered bone handle.

In all likelihood, there is a strong chance that we won’t ever find ourselves in the Western state of Utter Pradesh. But that said, it’s this sort of eclectic style of cuisine that is entirely worth celebrating in downtown Manhattan. Supplemented by some truly outstanding service, the expansive menu allowed us to sample a great many dishes and happily, it was tough to take much umbrage with anything that touched our table. The comfortable setting and wonderful aromas make Benares a hidden gem amongst Tribeca’s overhyped and often overpriced list of restaurants. And in a pleasant surprise, it’s also a restaurant we find worth revisiting to sample even more of the place’s massive selection of offerings.

Settled into a ground floor space on surprisingly quiet Kips Bay corner sits The Royal Munkey, a nicely sized place that might leave you second guessing that you’re actually inside of an Indian-inspired restaurant. Sister restaurant to uptown’s The Drunken Money, the 25th Street version brings with it many of the same unique qualities- namely an approachability for more casual diners who might normally be scared off by the flavors and ingredients associated with traditional Indian food. The Royal Munkey meshes European style cooking techniques with classic Indian fare amid an intricately decorated cocktail bar setting in a way that somehow manages to work quite well.

Once inside the spacious restaurant space, it’s difficult to avoid having your attention shift at the many decorative pieces strewn about the interior where there are monkeys seemingly everywhere. From the eye catching wallpaper to the small table lamps to the framed photos on the wall, the charming knick-knacks will keep you gazing around the room even in the midst of your dining experience. The monkey bellhop statuette welcoming guests inside is also admittedly a nice touch. Much of the space meanwhile feels classic without being old fashioned. The brown leather banquettes and royal blue walls make for a pleasing contrast to the golden colored wallpaper amid the dimly lit setting.

The bar is littered with bottles of spirits and the mixologists here are capable of serving up some serious drinks. A dated Indian-language film appears on loop on the television behind the bartender as we wrap our lips around concoctions like the “Indian Spiced Old Fashioned” ($13) made with a touch of silky spiced gomme and the “Dark N’ Stormy” ($13), served subtly sweet with cane sugar and candied ginger. Though the place is certainly destination worthy for its drink menu alone, the feast that we were set to enjoy was no joke, and fittingly enough for the neighborhood, is served into the wee hours of the morning.

Our mouths were immediately left agape by the deliciously seasoned “Crispy Okra,” a must order for any visit to the restaurant. The heaping serving, priced at just $5, was neither oily nor overly salty and once we figured out that they could be eaten with our hands, we immediately began to crunch our way to making a dent in the sizable plate. The entrees would roll out soon thereafter. We marveled while dipping warm pieces of naan into the thick rich broth drowning the “Sindhi Fish Curry” ($18), a dark brown bowl of flavorful and tender monkfish. Each saturated tear of bread was covered in fenugreek sauce, adding unique elements to our meal between spoonfuls of saffron ghee rice. And speaking of rice, the “Munkey Chicken Biryani” ($17) revealed a swollen casserole style casing covering up a starchy pot pie with enough hunks of piping hot chicken, rice and yogurt to sufficiently satisfy two dining guests.

Somehow, the starring dishes of the evening were still to come. The “Butter Chicken Tikka Masala” ($18) was a fantastic take on the Indian staple laid out in a creamed tomato sauce in such a way that was far more complex than its basic recipe might imply. Less adventurous eaters might just be swayed into ordering this style of food more frequently if given the chance to taste The Munkey’s twist on the traditional dish. Be forewarned, the same rules do not apply to the place’s “Goan Pork Vindalu” ($19), a dish that we were warned was among the spiciest on the entire menu. Though the plate’s spicy chili vinegar tomato sauce certainly had us reaching for gobs of naan and sips of water, there’s no reason to be scared off by the succulent cubes of pork shoulder bathed in the thick fiery sauce.

Whether you call it Kips Bay or Murray Hill, even the most passionate area residents will tell you that the neighborhood has undergone a nice little transition in recent years. Sure there are still some of the ‘Bro-Heavy’ bars that we all visited in our youth, but little pockets of worthwhile bars and restaurants have also been popping up in the high 20’s and low 30’s. Though other spots are likely to receive more praise, The Royal Munkey offers a distinctive combination of cocktail bar and restaurant that definitively can’t be found on every corner. With a dearth of activity in the surrounding blocks, the place is one that is worth seeking out and fortunately between the delicious eats and refreshing drinks, you won’t be forced to go anywhere else for a nightcap once dinner has concluded.

Rundown of the Meal

Craft Cocktails
Indian Spiced Old Fashioned ($13)
Dark N’ Stormy ($13)

Sides
Crispy Okra ($5)*

Rice Specialties
Munkey Chicken Biryani ($17)

Anglo-Indian Specialties
Goan Pork Vindalu ($19)*

Traditional Classics
Butter Chicken Tikka Masala ($18)*
Sindhi Fish Curry ($18)*
Saag Paneer ($16)

* Meal Highlight

New York City is a multi-cultural mecca when it comes to food.  There are virtually thousands of places that serve Indian food—some great, some gross. It’s important to sift through the innumerable options and find a restaurant that serves tasty, reasonably priced Indian food for a memorable meal. First Avenue has one of the highest concentrations of Indian eateries in the city and for a unique, and taste of the neighborhood we decided to give Royal Bangladesh Indian Restaurant a try.

Upon our arrival, we first noticed that the location of the restaurant was somewhat peculiar.  For some reason, there are three other Indian joints stacked right on top of each other, all of which share a staircase and a very similar appearance.  We were also treated to men in suits calling out to us to eat at the place they work for, like carnival barkers.

Try your best to avoid all of these unneeded stimuli from the yelling employees, as your destination is located in the bottom left corner.  Entering the restaurant we were immediately overwhelmed in a good way, by a multitude of flashing Christmas style lights, which set the tone for an entertaining night of dining.

The Royal Bangladesh does not have a liquor license.  But in its place they have a very friendly BYOB policy, and the restaurant is conveniently located next to a market with a full selection of beers.  The market is also run by an Indian family so they have a fine selection of brews that are indicative of Indian culture.  We liked the six pack of King Fisher, arguably the most popular beer in India. It goes great with literally everything on the menu. Wine may also be purchased close by as well.

The night we dined at Royal Bangladesh, we had a big group which was an excellent way to experience Indian food- especially at a place as lively as this one.  Each person can order a dish, and it can be passed around and shared by the group. We came with some favorites and the knowledgeable server gave us some great advice as well.

Naan bread is an excellent way to start off a meal of Indian food. It can be ordered plain, with cheese filling, or garlic seasoned. It’s great on its own or when dipped into any saucy dish. We recommend trying the garlic naan, and dipping it into Dahl Shaag . Dahl Shaag is a delightful creamy hot dish made up of spinach and lentils. It was an excellent addition to our table, and it is also ideal for anyone in your party who may be a vegetarian.

Tandoori chicken is a staple of Indian culture and every restaurant puts their own spin on it.  Literally five minutes after the order was taken, the food arrived. The Tandoori chicken came out on a steaming serving plate and was preceded by its alluring aroma coming from the kitchen in waves.  The taste did not disappoint at all. When ordering any chicken dish, one worries that it will come out dry and flavorless. Luckily this was not the case at Royal Bangladesh- it was well seasoned throughout and proved incredibly juicy.

For the patron with a tongue for spicy foods, try the chicken or vegetable Vindaloo.  Yes, the heat may be intense, but the flavors are bold and quite enjoyable.  You can drink some of that beer you bought next door to help simmer the sizzling fire in your mouth.  Rice lovers rejoice, as every dish comes with a large serving of traditional Basmati rice.  This is a perfect side dish for anything on their extensive menu.

The servers at Royal Bangladesh were attentive to the utmost.  There is literally an army of them. Water glasses were promptly refilled and finished dishes were cleared away post haste. These gentlemen are attentive without acting like hawks and aggressively trying to turn over tables. Even though the place is small and can get quite busy, the staff will allow you to linger for an appropriate time after your meal is finished so you can finish the rest of the alcohol you brought in.

With so many Indian restaurants in town, and with four of them stacked literally on top of each other, it is important to be an informed consumer when choosing the right place for you to dine.  That is why we recommend Royal Bangladesh, as a solid and fun choice for traditional Indian fare.  Be it a first date or a birthday party with a large group, they will accommodate you, and make you feel welcome. In a day and age of quick service, with fast table turnovers, that is truly saying a lot.